Nikko Trip 2: Nikko Harder

We arrvied in Nikko in the early hours of Sunday morning, about 10 AM if I recall correctly. The town of Nikko is incredible gorgeous. Think of the ancient snow capped Japanese town you are familiar with in your head, and thats where I went.

Tanaka, waving a home-made flag eerily reminiscient of plaid boxer shorts, lead us through the town immediately to the temples and shrines of Nikko. This historic area contained both Shinto and Buddhist shrines in extremely close proximity to one another, a visual symbolism of the mish-mash culture that is Japan. Most of the temples and shrines did not allow pictures inside of them. However, I had a sinking feeling this was more so that you would be forced to purchase the guides every shrine sold, rather than any sort of religious reason.

One interesting thing about these shrines, is the money boxes before every statue within. They are made for you to donate money in, but their construction is extemely telling of Japanese society. The boxes are made out of hollow wood, with many wooden slats criss-crossing the top at obscure angles. The result is that when you throw a coin in, the noise is tremendous and echoes off the box like those 'rain sticks' they sell in nature stores. In Japan, as you may or may not know, peoples attitudes are based upon the opinions of others. In other words, they do nothing for themselves. If some one doesnt know they've done it, and it doesnt benefit them, they won't do it. So the fact that every donation draws a lot of attention to the donater, is perfectly in line with Japanese culture, and kind of humorous to someone (myself) from a guilt based society where, although it may not seem like it at times, we like to do things to help others with out rewards. Well that, and it was also neat because rain sticks are fun!

Halfway through the tour of the shrines, it began to snow in such a way that you couldnt help but imagine post cards in every direction you looked. It also made it amazingly cold, since I had only had time to grab a track jacket in my rush that morning (see two entries ago for an account of that debacle.) We visited 4 areas full of multiple temples and shrines, and each one was unique. I would do them a disservice to try and describe each since theres only so many metaphors and descriptive narrations you can do before they lose their impacts. Suffice it to say, it was something I will never forget.

Jumping ahead to the day after, another thing I will never forget is the reaction of my Chinese friend Sun Shi Ki about my weekend. I told her of my visit to Nikko and she got visibly upset. She then explained in both broken English and disgusted Japanese, that these shrines were where the Japanese went to for prayer after razing her town in World War 2. They slaughtered whole towns, including members of her family. It made me realize how nothing in this world can be beautiful and innocent at the same time.

After this trip we went to the Four Seasons hotel, on top of the tallest mountain in Nikko, with the snow pounding down around us. Upon arrival at the hotel, we were given traditional yukattas to wear, a type of kimono. The Four Seasons is extremely notable not only for being a lavish and expensive hotel, but because it contained its own Onsen. An Onsen is a Japanese hot spring. Water, heated from nearby dormant volcanoes, is rerouted in to pools contained in the hotel. These pools are then filled with naked man looking to relax away their worries in 105+ degree water smelling of volcanic sulfur. It may sound funny, but it was amazing.

Two of the Onsens were located outside the building. Imagine an 8 foot by 5 foot concrete bath about 3 feet deep. Filled with flowing hot water. Surrounded by trees in every direction, with snow falling everywhere you look, except on top of you, as it melts right before it hits your head. It was a religious experience. Later, about 8 of us naked dudes crammed in to the tiny outdoor one and talked about girls and politics. The only 2 things that matter.

I think I spent about 3 hours that night in the onsen, it was one of the highlights of my time in Japan.

Some guys refused to go in the onsen, saying they weren't interested in "looking at guys cocks" (since this is obviously what the onsen is for.) Although these people were my friends, they are very obviously closeted homosexuals, and I wonder if they realize that their refusal to look at dudes naked is more telling than their acceptance of it.

Oh, you kids!

For dinner we had a traditional multi course Japanese feast. I ate about 3 things, as did many kids. Its not that I dont like Japanese food, its just that...well... I don't like Japanese food.

Me, Dave and Sanjiv shared a hotel room, which is extremely lucky since the room picks were random. Not only do we end up with friends, but we end up with the only room with only 3 people instead of 4! I attribute this to my good luck fortune I recieved in the temple that afternoon.

The rooms were traditional Japanese rooms, complete with a pit table, chairless table, tatami mats and sliding tatami doors. Our view was of a lake through the woods, it was easily the best hotel room I have ever stayed in. While we ate dinner, hotel workers came in and laid out our beds, which were rolled out on to the tatami mats, complete with tiny bead-filled pillows. How can you ask for anything more?

In the morning we had a Japanese breakfast, which most people opted out of and just got the free toast. The ride home took us down the mountainside and gave some of the best views of freshly fallen snow on mountaintops I have ever seen. Two hours later we were back in Shinjuku-Gyoenmae, ready for school. The trip may have lasted little longer than 24 hours, but it felt like days.

Days like these, you never forget.

karl.arthur