It's Night Time in Tokyo

the trials and tribulations of a 22 year old american student studying in tokyo, japan.

2005/12/27

all good things...

Well I'm back in the United States.

I left Tokyo at 7 PM Christmas day and arrived in New York City at 5 PM on Christmas day. By 11 O'Clock that night I was back at my mother's house.

I really have nothing substantial to add right now, except that I felt people should know that the adventure is over (for now.)

"For now," because I fully intend to go back after I graduate in May to teach English. This means many more wacky misadventures and hilarious escapades to come! Stay tuned...I know I will.

karl.arthur

2005/12/13

Nikko Trip 2: Nikko Harder

We arrvied in Nikko in the early hours of Sunday morning, about 10 AM if I recall correctly. The town of Nikko is incredible gorgeous. Think of the ancient snow capped Japanese town you are familiar with in your head, and thats where I went.

Tanaka, waving a home-made flag eerily reminiscient of plaid boxer shorts, lead us through the town immediately to the temples and shrines of Nikko. This historic area contained both Shinto and Buddhist shrines in extremely close proximity to one another, a visual symbolism of the mish-mash culture that is Japan. Most of the temples and shrines did not allow pictures inside of them. However, I had a sinking feeling this was more so that you would be forced to purchase the guides every shrine sold, rather than any sort of religious reason.

One interesting thing about these shrines, is the money boxes before every statue within. They are made for you to donate money in, but their construction is extemely telling of Japanese society. The boxes are made out of hollow wood, with many wooden slats criss-crossing the top at obscure angles. The result is that when you throw a coin in, the noise is tremendous and echoes off the box like those 'rain sticks' they sell in nature stores. In Japan, as you may or may not know, peoples attitudes are based upon the opinions of others. In other words, they do nothing for themselves. If some one doesnt know they've done it, and it doesnt benefit them, they won't do it. So the fact that every donation draws a lot of attention to the donater, is perfectly in line with Japanese culture, and kind of humorous to someone (myself) from a guilt based society where, although it may not seem like it at times, we like to do things to help others with out rewards. Well that, and it was also neat because rain sticks are fun!

Halfway through the tour of the shrines, it began to snow in such a way that you couldnt help but imagine post cards in every direction you looked. It also made it amazingly cold, since I had only had time to grab a track jacket in my rush that morning (see two entries ago for an account of that debacle.) We visited 4 areas full of multiple temples and shrines, and each one was unique. I would do them a disservice to try and describe each since theres only so many metaphors and descriptive narrations you can do before they lose their impacts. Suffice it to say, it was something I will never forget.

Jumping ahead to the day after, another thing I will never forget is the reaction of my Chinese friend Sun Shi Ki about my weekend. I told her of my visit to Nikko and she got visibly upset. She then explained in both broken English and disgusted Japanese, that these shrines were where the Japanese went to for prayer after razing her town in World War 2. They slaughtered whole towns, including members of her family. It made me realize how nothing in this world can be beautiful and innocent at the same time.

After this trip we went to the Four Seasons hotel, on top of the tallest mountain in Nikko, with the snow pounding down around us. Upon arrival at the hotel, we were given traditional yukattas to wear, a type of kimono. The Four Seasons is extremely notable not only for being a lavish and expensive hotel, but because it contained its own Onsen. An Onsen is a Japanese hot spring. Water, heated from nearby dormant volcanoes, is rerouted in to pools contained in the hotel. These pools are then filled with naked man looking to relax away their worries in 105+ degree water smelling of volcanic sulfur. It may sound funny, but it was amazing.

Two of the Onsens were located outside the building. Imagine an 8 foot by 5 foot concrete bath about 3 feet deep. Filled with flowing hot water. Surrounded by trees in every direction, with snow falling everywhere you look, except on top of you, as it melts right before it hits your head. It was a religious experience. Later, about 8 of us naked dudes crammed in to the tiny outdoor one and talked about girls and politics. The only 2 things that matter.

I think I spent about 3 hours that night in the onsen, it was one of the highlights of my time in Japan.

Some guys refused to go in the onsen, saying they weren't interested in "looking at guys cocks" (since this is obviously what the onsen is for.) Although these people were my friends, they are very obviously closeted homosexuals, and I wonder if they realize that their refusal to look at dudes naked is more telling than their acceptance of it.

Oh, you kids!

For dinner we had a traditional multi course Japanese feast. I ate about 3 things, as did many kids. Its not that I dont like Japanese food, its just that...well... I don't like Japanese food.

Me, Dave and Sanjiv shared a hotel room, which is extremely lucky since the room picks were random. Not only do we end up with friends, but we end up with the only room with only 3 people instead of 4! I attribute this to my good luck fortune I recieved in the temple that afternoon.

The rooms were traditional Japanese rooms, complete with a pit table, chairless table, tatami mats and sliding tatami doors. Our view was of a lake through the woods, it was easily the best hotel room I have ever stayed in. While we ate dinner, hotel workers came in and laid out our beds, which were rolled out on to the tatami mats, complete with tiny bead-filled pillows. How can you ask for anything more?

In the morning we had a Japanese breakfast, which most people opted out of and just got the free toast. The ride home took us down the mountainside and gave some of the best views of freshly fallen snow on mountaintops I have ever seen. Two hours later we were back in Shinjuku-Gyoenmae, ready for school. The trip may have lasted little longer than 24 hours, but it felt like days.

Days like these, you never forget.

karl.arthur

2005/12/09

A whore by any other name

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NOTE: This post interrupts the story of my Nikko trip, which will return in its regular timeslot Saturday night. Thanks!
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I was questioning whether or not to relate this story of a few weeks ago, tonight. Things happened. Things that may offend people. After speaking with Matt LaForge, frequent blog analyst, however, I feel it is my duty to present the following story, unabridged and uncensored. Please send your children to bed.

The day was doyoobi.

No wait.

The day was Saturday. Dave and myself had decided to spend the afternoon shopping in Harajuku. Harajuku, as usual, was overpriced and too trendy, although I did get a Beastie Boys mesh hat at a very reasonable price.

A call from Elijah alerted me to a 30th birthday party for his friend going on at a bar in omotesando. After a bite to eat at T.G.I.Kinyoobi’s me and Dave hit the yamanote subway line and were on our way to omotesando.

The crowd was a 30-something crowd, as Elijah himself is 30. About 10 people were there, but only 5 of them mattered: me, Dave, Elijah, Karim and Ian.

Karim was Elijah’s friend and co-conspirator on many occasions. He is the one who can bust a nut from a lap dance, and who first got in to our heads the idea of a Chinese whore.

Ian was a visitor from England. He believes all Americans are loud, obnoxious and arrogant. This is why he loves hanging out with them.

Elijah owed me a few drinks because I had hooked him up with a girl the weekend before, so I quickly downed two double 151’s and cokes in about 10 minutes. I was fucked up. Fumbling through my cell phone, I decided to call this kid Gabe, a classmate of mine. He was a little uptight and, drunk as I was, figured he might want to come hang out on a Saturday night.

This would become a move that will haunt me for years to come.

As I exited the bar, Elijah and I were discussing the better merits of Japanese women when a shout and a hand to my shoulder drew my face upwards in to Gabe’s. Gabe was dressed overly nicely, in a button down shirt with a sweater, and nice leather loafers on. He was clean shaven and had a hair cut similar to Scott Baio’s from Charles in Charge.

As we entered the train station, the head count was Elijah, Ian, Dave, myself and Gabe trailing behind. If it weren’t for the fact that everyone but him was Asian in the crowd, I might have mistaken Gabe for a student going home from a late class, on his way to dinner with his parents.

We headed out to Shibuya, where we all downed a couple of the Hubs’ 1000 yen long island iced teas. They are extremely strong and well worth the 1000 yen. This hub was particularly interesting to me because the bathroom ceiling was only about 5 foot high and, being 6 foot 2, I felt like I was on Being John Malkovich: The Ride.

We left the Hub and went to Gas Panic, the local hip hop bar in Shibuya. When we went down we realized we were the only white guys in the bar, as it was primarily black men staring us down as we entered. We quickly left Gas Panic, but Gabe stayed inside to hit on two girls, who he himself later admitted were ugly. We all thought this was strange, especially because Gabe had a girlfriend he was devoted to back home.

We thought about ditching him, but we all had to piss, so we waited around outside. One of the great things about Japan is that it is socially acceptable to urinate in the streets.

At this point it was about 2 AM. Elijah and Ian were both ready to go home, especially now that everyone was beginning to mope around, with no plans being thrown out for consideration.

This is when the night flipped turned upside down.

The second the taxi was out of sight, Gabe grabbed us and ran over to a Chinese girl, who it turned out was a whore. He told us he would try to negotiate a cheap blowjob for Dave, who never asked for a blowjob. Gabe was also learning Japanese and far from fluent, so I thought this would be quite enjoyable to watch him drunkenly try to negotiate sexual acts from a girl whose second language is also Japanese.

It was at this point in the narrative that Dave and I discover Gabe is apparently fluid in Chinese.

Not only is he fluent in Chinese, but it became immediately apparent he was also fluent in whore, because it was clearly not his first time talking to one.

After arguing and yelling at the prostitute for about 20 minutes he tells us she will let us go look at the girls for free, and see if we like any. Both Dave and I said no, that we were ok, but Gabe started insisting, so we followed. I was also a little intrigued myself, since up until this point in my life whore houses were only something in movies and Madonna music videos to me. If anything went down, I told myself, they would probably go after the guy dressed like an extra from Full House, and not the 6 foot 2 guy with muscles.

A quick walk lead us to an apartment building staircase, adorned with the message “female or shemale?” on the door. Dave read it aloud, at first to himself, but growing louder with each syllable like some twisted Sesame Street sing along.

We walked up in to a tiny Chinese room containing a large Chinese woman. Gabe started fluidly arguing with her in Chinese and the first girl picked up her cell phone and slammed the door shut, walking outside. I grabbed Dave and told Gabe “we’re leaving!” and hurriedly brushed past the girl and went to the street below, in to the comfort and safety of drunks and children posing as adults.

Immediately, Gabe begins negotiating with another Chinese hooker as me and Dave try to slip away. Why wasn’t he trying to get a blowjob for himself? Why did he want to get Dave head so badly? Who would ever ask for a “Scott Baio” at the barbershop? To this day I still don’t know the answers to any of these questions.

Gabe grabs another girl and negotiates a blowjob for dave for 5000 yen. The girl grabs Dave’s arm and pulls him across the street to a shady looking building. I tell Gabe I am going to wait outside but he stares me down and says I had better come up with him. His forcefulness gave my curiosity an excuse to beat up my integrity, and my bruised ego stumbled up the stairs.

The Chinese spilled out of Gabe again as he flooded in to the tiny door that promised ‘massages and more.’ An older man, the proprietor of the business I can only assume, yelled back and forth with Gabe. I find out that Gabe is trying to negotiate for us to stay inside the room while Dave is massaged. I walk out and Gabe reluctantly follows me in to the hallway.

I asked what he wanted to do next, and he told me he was going to try and get his new ‘friend’ to give us both free blowjobs. I told him he was insane and we were leaving as soon as Dave was done.

He was going to argue when the girl opened the door, almost as soon as we had sat down, and shouted, translated literally, “Hey guys, your friend is DONE.”10 minutes later Dave came out and we left. Dave said he had waited to have tea with the girl and talk about her school life.

I guess she wants to work in International Studies.

At this point we told gabe we were going to the manga kissa and going to bed, that was it. He sternly told us that, no, we were not and that was it. We said ok and went to a convenience store. Gabe had me hold his beer and went to the bathroom for about 10 minutes. Given his level of excitement about the prostitutes and his disposition I dare say it is not a big leap to assume what went on in that bath room at this time was not a wholesome activity.

He came out and bought a cup of sake and told us he would lead us to city bank to get money and then we could leave. Satisfied he had finally given in to my wishes, I followed him down a narrow side street. I began to realize this side street was not full of city banks, or even banks at all!

It was in fact full of strip clubs.

At this point Gabe saw me looking around and realized I knew where we were. He told me and dave he would negotiate us to get in to a strip club for 1000 yen. We said no thanks, but he told us where were going to and stopped to rapidly speak Chinese with a large man standing outside a strip club. Next to him in the dim light of an early morning Tokyo, Gabe reminded me of Martin Sheen talking to Marlon Brando in Apocalypse Now.

The horror. The whore.

Dave and I kept walking and turned on to the main street. We saw a bank and took out the money we needed to pay for the kissa. As we looked back we saw Gabe had not yet come out on to the main street. This was our chance. Freedom. Safety. Unlimited refills on soda.

We ran like hell itself was behind us, and we owed it money.

Inside the kissa, safely, Gabe called and I decided to pick up. I told him we were done for the night and going to bed. Gabe told me that was not alright, and that he was coming to find us.

“Where are you right now? I’m coming to get you!”

I told him we weren’t allowed to talk inside and hung up the phone.

In the next 30 minutes he called back at least 4 times, but by that point I had fallen asleep. The story was over. I was asleep and all that was left was the epilogue.

In the morning I walked to the train station alone and sat in silence all the way back to Nishi Kokubunji. I saw Dave getting in to a taxi and I yelled to him, getting inside next to him. We briefly discussed the previous nights events and agreed to never speak of them again.

As we pulled in to our dorm, I closed my eyes. In that moment I tried my hardest to imprint on my brain what it feels like to be young. To be young and have nothing else matter.

2005/12/07

crazy weekend

This weekend was an extremely eventful time in my life.

What better place to start than at the beginning?

Friday night I had a date with Nao. We went to Shakey's pizza and then hung out at a manga kissa. Despite the presence of a security camera, Nao was comfortable in discovering how our bodies worked, which made me happy. I think the close proximity to people made our actions more enjoyable, dare I say. The manga kissa may be the most perfect place ever, and I highly suggest you take the chance and enter it, should you ever be in Tokyo.

Saturday morning I woke up at 9 AM and went in to school for an orientation on our trip to Nikko, which was to take place Sunday to Monday. The old man who gave us a tour of Tokyo also gave us this lecture about Nikko, and, as usual, he was the coolest old man ever. Among the dozens of interesting off-topic things he told us was to never trust the Japanese, that the Japanese language is confusing and ambigious, and that Japanese people are only good at copying other countries ideas. It is extremely admirable to me how he can honestly and openly discuss his feelings about his own people like this, especially given how many elderly are sticks in the mud. He also told us of the real 'last samurai,' so to speak. The name currently escapes me, but he was the last samurai to remain loyal to the god-emperor of Japan. In 1970 he went on Japanese TV, while giving a speech to thousands of people, and declared "I still believe you are a living god!!", referring to the emperor. The thousands of people, who had previously supported this samurai's political position of abolishing the US constitution in Japan, began to laugh at him for such a statement. Shamed, he committed Seppuku live on TV to show how serious he was. His assistant went to chop off his head, but missed and hacked at his body instead. Shamed by his disgrace, the assistant himself than also committed Seppuku. A third samurai then chopped off both of their heads, all live on national television. This footage was never allowed to be shown or recorded in Japan again, but the old man teaching us that day had seen it with his own eyes.

Wow.

I told Nao about the story today and she had never even heard of it. She said most Japanese kids don't know anything about Japanese history at all, or pretty much anything that happened outside their own time on this earth, unless it's on an exam. That's kinda sad.

Saturday afternoon I went to the museum park in Ueno with Sheen Iin, my Korean friend. She wanted to see the Hokusai exhibit there, but I told her since I had already gone, I would only go if she also went to the Gundam museum, also in Ueno. In fact, Ueno has 6 or 7 Museums, a zoo and a concert hall, all in one giant park. It is an amazingly cultural place, and one of my favorite in Tokyo.

So the Gundam exhibit is being showcased at one museum between ocotber and december of this year. What would you expect to be in a Gundam exhibit in Japan?

If you answered "Gundam," you are wrong.

Rather, this exhibit was post-modern artists interpretations of the classic themes of Gundam: War, Evolution and Life. Exihibits included giant photos of skulls being looked over by hot Japanese women, a life size woman that a robot controls (opposite of a gundam), a 3d hodge podge of metal, a gundam with a giant cock made out of a man, and perhaps my favorite: a post-card entitled "future camp site", which was just a childs drawing of a naked woman from behind on her knees giving a naked man head, in the middle of hydroponic machines. It was truly one of the most interesting art exhibits I have ever seen, and both me and Iin loved it.

After that we went to the Hokusai exhibit, which was closing on Sunday, and waited in line for over an hour to get in. I felt bad because I feel asleep on a chair when we went in, and Iin had to walk around by herself. At least I was able to hold her things for her though, and I also convinced her to go back and get a book she had forgotten to buy, so I didnt feel too bad. After that we both headed home.

We had to be at school for the trip to Nikko by 8 AM. I rolled over and saw my computer said it was 7:45 AM. I was fucked. I freaked out, pulled on pants, grabbed my bag and ran out the door. The train left for Nikko at 9:10 AM, and was an hour away from school, which was itself an hour away from my dorm. I was fucked.

As I ran towards the train station, knowing that it was impossible to make it in time, I saw a taxi driving next to me, so I ran out in to the street and hopped in. The doors on taxis are controlled by the drivers console, FYI, its considered rude to try and open or close it yourself. I told him to take me to Shinjuku Gyoenmae, but that I dont have enough money and would need to stop at an ATM. Luckily, he said it was ok. I talked to Tanaka on the phone, who said my only hope was to meet them at Asakusa, where the shinkansen (bullet train) was leaving from. I quickly changed routes and the driver said I would get to Asakusa by 9 AM.

It was going to be close.

I began explaining my situation to the driver, who took a great interest in it, and began rooting for me. He said not to worry about money, we'd figure it out along the way. We got to Asakusa at 8:45 and he stopped the meter for me and said the rest was on him. The driver didn't know where the shinkansen line, called Tall Blue, was, though. He stopped at the side of the road and sprinted over to the first man he saw to ask him for directions (keep in mind the driver was in his 50s.) He sprinted back to the car and said he knew where to go and pulled through a red light and sped down the road. We tried 2 banks and neither accepted US cards, and I was almost ready to throw in the towell since it was 8:54 AM, when the driver spotted a yubinkyoku (post office.) These almost always contain international ATMs, and I saw from the road that this one did, too. Hurray!

Fuck.

It was closed and didn't open until 9 AM. The driver saw this and said he would wait the 10 or so minutes for me. At exactly 9 the automatic doors opened and I ran to the ATM, got out 150,000 yen and sprinted through traffic to the taxi. I hopped in and he took off to the station. My taxi ride came to 11,600 yen (and this was just from my dorm to Asakusa, not counting the 20+ minutes we rode around the city), and the driver said he would only take 10,000 yen from me. We pulled up the station at 9:05 and I threw him 11,000 yen and ran in where I saw Tanaka feverishly checking his watch. He gave me a ticket and we both ran on to the train literally 2 minutes before it left. I collapsed in a seat and slept to 2 hours to Nikko.

What a way to start your day, huh?

TO BE CONTINUED SATURDAY!

2005/12/03

i am the scavenger

scavenger HUNTER that is!

Today during class we all split in to teams and went on a scavenger hunt across Shinjuku. My group was Kim Jontay, Suku Kyun, Ryu Ensen and myself (pictured L-R in this order below.) I just spelled all of their names wrong, but they don't have real english spellings anyways, so it doesn't matter.

The scavenger hunt consisted of four questions, which we had to travel around Shinjuku, Tokyo's main city, to answer. We had about 2 hours to complete the whole thing, and it took every minute in the end.

The journey started from school and the first goal was to find the local jinja. A jinja is a shinto shrine. Luckily for us, the jinja we had to find was the same one I had travelled to with Nao on our first date (described in one of the first blog entries.) We quickly found it and asked people walking around about some japanese holidays to answer our questions and we were off. I asked a local women to take a photo of us in front of the main shrine before we left. The next stop was some business building. We had no idea where it was, but fucking Jontay came through again. As you guys know, hes a big shot Korean business man, so he made a few calls and they were expecting us at the building when we got there! It was awesome. The next stop on our journey was to find the department store I-Setan (prounced E-Setan, Japanese people prounce "I's" like "E's".) It took us a while but we got there eventually. On the way, we saw a new born puppy in a window selling for 28 Man en. This is about 2500 dollars. They dont fuck around with dogs in Japan, its insane how much these people love tiny dogs. I will have to write an entry about it one day, it could easily fill up one on its own.

The last spot we had to scout out was the Shinjuku - Seibu Train Station. It was a bit of a hike (this whole hunt took place over at least 20 or 30 city blocks), and our goal was to find out how much an umbrella costs in the store on the 8th floor. Luckily, we found a guide on the wall before we went up, because the store was a hyaku en store (a 100 yen store), saving us a trip.

We were supposed to meet up on the top floor of the highest building in Shinjuku with the rest of the groups from all the first year classes when we finished. We got done with the list over half an hour early, though, so Jontay convinced us to stop for a coffee break. I am glad we did, because as soon as we sat down, Jontay whipped out 2000 en and told the 3 of us to get whatever food and drink we wanted.

Seriously, Jontay fucking rules!

We finished our drinkage and foodage around 4:30 and set off to meet up with the group. Or that was the plan. Unfortunately it turns out we had no idea which building was the tallest in Shinjuku, we had just assumed it would be obvious. This made Jontay extremely red in the face, since he had suggested the break that ate up our time. We all were in high spirits though, so we didnt care. We asked a few Japanese people and discovered the tallest building was the city hall in Shinjuku. 30 minutes later we were there, 30 minutes late.

The view from the top of city hall was unbelievable. It was 45 stories high, but it seemed higher. We were pleased to find out we weren't even close to being the last group there. By this point it was dark, and buildings lit up the horizon in every direction, so that you couldnt tell where the stars ended and the ground began.

Later on that night I met up with Nao and hung out with her. We had some good times. Now I have to wake up in 7 hours for orientation for my trip to Nikko this weekend, a historical town near Tokyo. After orientation I am FINALLY going to the gundam museum though!!!

Life is good.
karl.arthur











My Chinese buddy, Chou Shoo Kei, on the top floor of city hall ( building pictured above)